Functional, decorative and inspirational, these fragile objects are a beautiful reminder of Singapore’s past through bust and boom. Learn more about Singapore’s beautiful shophouse tiles.
Read MoreBukit Brown Cemetery: Peranakan Tiles Amid Nature
Amid the leafy canopy, tweeting birds and the steady hum of insects, you may find here some of the most beautiful antiques in Singapore. Bukit Brown Cemetery is my favourite place to see what are more commonly know as 'Peranakan' tiles. These charming ceramic beauties with a touch of Art Nouveau and hailing from overseas, are often seen on restored shophouses in the old Peranakan enclaves of Joo Chiat Road, Ang Siang Hill and Emerald Hill.
I prefer the rough terrain of this 'outdoor museum', and over the past few years it has become a wonderful place of learning and lotion (mosquito repellent a must) for me! It is named after George Henry Brown, a Briton who came to Singapore in the 1840s. Interestingly, it was also the first official hybrid English and Malay place name in Singapore. The cemetery opened on 1 January 1922 as a municipal cemetery administered by the British and adopted the unconventional idea of allowing any Chinese to be buried there regardless of dialect group and status. Located roughly in the north-west central area of Singapore, it has the largest number of Chinese graves outside mainland China.
Most of these colourful wall tiles at the cemetery date back to the early 20th century and are mainly found adorning the graves of Chinese Peranakans. With an eclectic taste for decorative items from Europe, Peranakans are said to have been fond of such tiles despite their presumably hefty price. Shophouses and graves were rumoured to have sometimes been decorated with the same tiles so that that deceased could continue to enjoy their beauty 'in the next life'.
I took these photos on an overcast day, which soon became a tropical downpour. Amid the overgrowth, the cemetery has an amazing quietness and serenity despite how close to town it is. Since its closure in 1973, the grounds have been maintained only minimally and as a result, the jungle has reclaimed its might with many graves covered in grass and tree roots. Despite this, the condition of many tiles is reasonable in the face of constant exposure to the elements. None of these photos are edited, so what you see is the natural patina of nature over the course of a hundred years.
Read more: My Personal Heritage at Bukit Brown Cemetery
Support Bukit Brown Cemetery by joining a wonderful complimentary tour by the volunteer group All Things Bukit Brown.
ブキット・ブラウン墓地:トリップアドバイザー
Peranakan Tiles & Chinese Symbolism
Longevity, wealth, fertility...all key concerns for so many cultures including the Chinese Peranakans!
Read MorePeranakan Tile Symbolism
Antique tile shopping - a great way to experience history - well, that was my excuse during my mother's recent visit to Singapore. We both love antiques, and tiles are no exception. Although she favours art deco and I like art nouveau - we both agree it's the story behind the object that makes shopping so much more meaningful...
And no better story-teller on tiles is Peranakan tile expert Victor Lim! I'd been planning to visit Victor at his shop Aster by Kyra.
According to very personable Victor, this tile is highly symbolic and typically Chinese in its images. Buddha's hand (fingered citron): a symbol of happiness, longevity and good fortune. Peaches: a symbol of long life. Pomegranate: a symbol for fertility - traditionally meaning many sons!
The tile I bought was made by Danto Kaisha, one of only two Japanese tile manufacturers in operation today. Another place to visit when I get around to organising an art tour of Japan...any takers?:) You can see here what Danto is making these days - stylish tiles of a modern type!
Thanks also to Anne Pinto Rodrigues' article Peranakan Tiles: The Japanese Connection in Friends of the Museums Singapore 'Passage' magazine, I recently learned that many 'Peranakan' tiles were actually tailored to local Chinese Peranakan tastes and manufactured in Japan. Apparently local craftsmen were also taken to Japan to create tiles rich in Chinese symbolism and motifs. Patricia Bjaaland Welch’s book Chinese Art: A Guide to Motifs and Visual Imagery has also been a great help in understanding more about motifs used in these such tiles.
I'm looking forward to taking my mum again next time she is in town. Perhaps we need to learn just a bit more about antique tiles and make another visit to Victor's shop...:)
Japanese Peranakan Tiles
Fujimiyaki Tiles and Danto Kaisha are the only two Japanese tile companies still in operation today - many of their tiles were very popular with Peranakan families in the early 20th century, and can still be seen around Joo Chiat and Geylang in Singapore. See this interesting article by Steveshouse by Paula.